A Little More Couture

Let’s talk about Georges.

Unfinished, but Fabulous

Georges Hobeika Fall 2010 Couture

Easily the most likeable, the most wearable, and therefore the most boring piece in Georges Hobeika’s fascinating and often inspiring haute couture collection. Not that this would qualify as boring under normal circumstances; it’s still high fashion and gorgeous, but it’s certainly nothing new. The tissue-paper draped blouse has been done in countless ways (but I give Hobeika credit for making it more beautiful than most). And the skirt is gorgeous and gives off a fabulous Middle Eastern feel (Hobeika is, after all, Lebanese). But take a look at the next few photos and you’ll see how much more he is capable of.

Georges Hobeika Fall 2010 Couture

I want to punch that model in the face for walking with such an unattractive hunch – you’re a fucking runway model, for God’s sake, it’s your JOB to stand up straight, keep your shoulders back, and live on a diet of cigarettes and cocaine. But that ruffled sunflower piece is simply majestic. I just wish the dress either ended there, because it feels like Hobeika was so caught up in the impeccable creation of the top half of the garment that he simply gave up on the bottom. The skirt just sort of hangs there lifelessly, making an otherwise complex and beautiful gown look sloppy and unfinished. Unfortunately, this was a mistake he repeated.

Georges Hobeika Fall 2010 Couture

Same exact concept, same exact mistake. Another beautiful incarnation of a unique design element, but the look is nearly ruined by the wrinkled mess south of her hips. I hate the way it drapes around the front of her legs like sweatpants, and the train seems like an afterthought. But I do applaud the red lips and nails; they certainly pop against that soft silver.

Georges Hobeika Fall 2010 Couture

This is what I love to see on the runway (though I think the front of the skirt isn’t laying as well as it could). I love this sort of gown because it still feels wearable – it feels like a real cocktail dress, not some cracked-out avant-garde version of what might once have been considered clothing. But it’s so obviously new and fresh, the beading is gorgeous, the colors are fabulous, and those shoes are to die for.

Georges Hobeika Fall 2010 Couture

Couture in a nutshell, this is by far my favorite piece in the collection. The bottom feels like strawberry shortcake, or an artist’s studio in the Village; the shape of the skirt feels like Victorian England; and the ruffles are astounding in shape and volume. As close to perfect as couture gets.

Stunning but Derivative

George Chakra Fall 2010 Couture

Like everything else in George Chakra’s collection, this dress is impeccably made, red-carpet ready, stunning to look at, and a total has-been. This dress has been seen on Hollywood’s most glamorous as long as Hollywood has existed. We all know that this is a recipe that works – but without a modern twist (and the gloves are not enough), this is just old news.

George Chakra Fall 2010 Couture

I understand that fashion is, by its very nature, derivative. Designers are inspired by what came before them. The fashion of the 30s becomes the fashion of the 50s becomes the fashion of the 80s, trends repeat, old tricks are revived and reused. But I think viewers of haute couture collections should still be allowed to expect some originality, some innovation. I know I’m being unreasonably hard on Chakra; all designers have pieces whose influences are easily recognizable. In every collection I’ve posted about on this blog, there’s been looks inspired by, or nearly copied from, other designers. But I’m giving Chakra such a hard time because 1) there are just so many copycat dresses and 2) this is Paris haute couture, and dammit, we deserve better.

George Chakra Fall 2010 Couture

Didn’t we see that giant collar on basically every episode of the 4th season of Project Runway? I’m pretty sure that collar is the go-to piece for every designer trying to be couture or avant-garde. And that’s acceptable when you’re in a design competition reality show, but not so much in an haute couture collection in Paris. (But, I concede, I absolutely love those colors together.)

George Chakra Fall 2010 Couture

One of the more original looks of the collection, though between the white and champagne frilliness, the red bow, and the blue shoes, I can’t see anyone wearing this outside the holiday season. You can still sense a sort of Marchesa-meets-McQueen feel to it, but it seems more original and inspired than the others. But that may be because this model is basically wearing a crinoline taco.

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Stay tuned for tonight’s Diva’s Choice! Another piece of utter delicious fashion is on its way.

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Paris Fall 2010 Couture Fashion Week

It’s couture time, bitches. Let’s go collection by collection, since only a handful of couture designers showed at Paris Fashion Week, and even less are worth discussing.

Underwhelming: Jean Paul Gaultier

Dita Von Teese in Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2010 Couture

This was by far my favorite look in Jean Paul Gaultier’s collection, although it’s certainly not perfect. But to me, it was one of the only pieces in his collection that felt daring and original. The first six looks were boring, and the rest of the collection tries to be dark and futuristic, but doesn’t really achieve much in the way of high fashion. Dita Von Teese making a guest appearance in the show was a nice touch, and only a burlesque star (or a diehard Rocky Horror fan) would have a reason to wear this skeleton-corset, but beyond that, the show was largely a disappointment.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2010 Couture

This look at least felt like couture to me. A complex and fresh design, with no accessory overlooked. Let’s not forget that wearability is not the primary concern of couture designers – that’s why these aren’t Ready-To-Wear. They’re meant for the runway, more like art than clothing. And in that respect, I think this is a stunning dress. It has a subtle nod to flappers of the 1920s, but it feels modern and original. And the fishnets are a perfect touch.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2010 Couture

Couture is about vision. It’s about intricacy and impeccable design and clothes that look like they took months to make, because they did. I think that was wear Gaultier failed – he focused on the gimmicks and the showmanship instead of the actual design elements. It’s all great to have burlesque stars and violins and sky-high, gravity-defying hairstyles, but so many of the actual designs were just haphazard draping. And of course there is a fine art to draping, but nothing in the way Gaultier used draping felt new or beautiful or unique. Instead it felt messy, repetitive, and kind of boring.

Hit or Miss: Valentino

Many of the individual looks in Valentino’s collection were exquisite, like the bow-adorned cocktail dress and matching full-length gloves pictured above. A modern twist on the petticoats of yore, I fell in love with this dress and a few others in the collection.

Valentino Fall 2010 Couture

Another beautiful dress, but with a nearly identical concept: Put a lot of bows and a simple twist on a normal dress. What struck me as bothersome about the collection over all is how similar so many of the looks were. Of course cohesion is important in a collection, but Valentino showed the same outfit in two different colors; two nearly identical outfits, just with different hemlines; and the same outfit in two different fabrics (but the same colors). That was too much for me to take – the effect of a simple but fabulous black dress is not enhanced by seeing the white version of it ten seconds later. It just felt like a waste of fabric, at least in a couture show. It’s about customization and each piece being different from the next, not a gown in several colors that’s marketable or ready-to-wear.

Valentino Fall 2010 Couture

It’s similar to the first Valentino dress, but not so similar that it feels derivative, like so many of the looks did. Instead, it’s a couture bridal gown fit for a queen. The bows on the shoes and the hands of the gloves are exquisite, and bring an element of softness to the architectural tiers of the gown. I’m glad bows are in, and I love these three dresses more than words, but Valentino’s collection suffered from a lack of variety and diversity.

Chanel and the Art of Influence

My favorite look of the Chanel collection. Perfect handiwork. An almost obsessive attention to detail. And those Wonder Woman-inspired wrist cuffs are exquisite. It looks as expensive as I’m sure it is, but I love the rough hemline, bringing a bit of grittiness into an angelic dress.

Chanel Fall 2010 Couture

But the last few collections of Chanel and other designers such as Marc Jacobs have been plagued by what I like to call The Mormon Skirt Dilemma. I have no idea why the runway is full of skirts that stop at this awkward place, but I think they’re unflattering, unnatural, and throw off the proportions of the entire outfit. The Mormon Skirt Dilemma, plus the use of heavy tweet, gave most of the models the appearance of little girls wearing Twilight-inspired versions of their grandmothers’ clothes. In fact, much of the collection felt heavy and dark, with the occasional burst of lightness like the first Chanel outfit shown above. Not that heavy and dark is necessarily bad, but Chanel went for the same effect in the Fall 2010 RTW collection, so it does get a bit wearing after awhile.

Chanel Fall 2010 Couture

I love the way the beadwork over the lace feels like armor. It was certainly a collection for a haute couture Joan of Arc woman. But that lace skirt is just breathtaking, and the boots with it are completely badass. Of course, it doesn’t hurt to have legs for days to pull off a look like that. But I would have loved to see more looks that stepped outside the tweed-suits-and-wool-coats box of Chanel.

Armani Privé: It’s All About the Fit

I think the Armani Privé collection felt more like a nearly complete RTW collection than anything haute couture, but this suit immediately leaped out at me as a favorite. The shimmery white tights and the silk ivory blouse are soft, sweet, and sexy. And we know that anything studded, or anything that looks studded, is super-trendy right now, as evidenced by Dakota Fanning’s fierce shoes. And the fit of this suit is just incredible.

Armani Privé Fall 2010 Couture

But what, I ask you, is couture about this? Where is the detail, the handiwork, the originality? This is a badly pressed sheet, poorly wrapped around a starving girl. This has no element of design, let alone couture. And is it just me, or has this model spent a little too much time in the pool? Those ends look green with chlorine.

Armani Privé Fall 2010 Couture

And zoom! Back to fabulous. The perfect coat. Simple and elegant, but with fantastic design aspects. That huge button clasp, the asymmetry, the curves of the hem, and of course the draping over her left shoulder take this coat to new heights.

Armani Privé Fall 2010 Couture

Fit, fit, fit, Armani! What is going on in the bust of this dress? We’re mere moments away from seeing her right nipple. The dress looks like it’s inches away from her chest and the sides don’t look even. I’m just not sure how something like this actually made it onto the runway. I want to run up to her with a cushion full of pins, yank that dress up three inches, and pin it into place.

Honorable Mention: Elie Saab

Elie Saab’s collection was a wonderful combination of the intrigue of couture and the wearability of red-carpet fashion. I have no least favorite looks, but just one negative comment towards the collection as a whole: it did seem a bit disjointed. The individual looks seemed detached from each other; they were similar to the looks before or after, but just a few models later, you couldn’t believe you were at the same show. Cohesion is a difficult thing to achieve, and I think that was Elie Saab’s main weakness in this otherwise strong collection.

Elie Saab Fall 2010 Couture

Now that is a print. It looks tie-dyed, paint-splattered, it moves like liquid, and it feels like fire. The skirt is designed in a way that makes it flow fabulously, I love the rouching on the bodice, and the single-sleeve style, which I usually dislike, is beautiful.

Elie Saab Fall 2010 Couture

And this is couture. It looks like it took millions of painstaking hours of sewing, beading, and draping to accomplish such a complex and divine gown. This is what I hope Kate Middleton will wear to marry Prince William. A gown fit for a princess.

The Winner: Christian Dior

Christian Dior Fall 2010 Couture

I beg of you – don’t take my word on this one. See for yourself how over-the-top, inspiring, and beautiful Christian Dior’s collection is. It may be a fall collection, but it’s obvious that spring has sprung for Christian Dior. Like this neon dress that struts the line between yellow and green, brightness is in nearly every look. This dress feels fresh and unique, but it’s also something that you could see easily adapted for the red carpet. (Though only Lady Gaga would wear the head piece.)

Christian Dior Fall 2010 Couture

The only thing I dislike about these entire collection is those damn rubber gloves. I’ve seen them on runways before, and whenever they’re in orange or yellow, it just feels like the woman is strutting down the runway to wash some dishes or operate on someone. But I love, love, love the beaded bodice and voluminous skirt – not unique in any structural way, but glamorous and exquisite regardless.

Christian Dior Fall 2010 Couture

You have to love Dior for the way the avant-garde pops into these looks. The way those flowers cascade down the skirt, which would be gorgeous even without them, just strikes me as incredibly romantic. And the colors of those flowers! This is the one time I like the use of the gloves, because that purple color is just another glorious surprise. That iced robin’s-egg-blue color of the sweater is phenomenal, as is the collar. I’m not sure what’s happening with that paper bag belt/sash/bow, but it keeps me guessing, and ultimately leaves me wanting more.

Christian Dior Fall 2010 Couture

Sold.

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Check the Democracy Diva later tonight for today’s Diva’s Choice – one piece of overpriced fabulousness every day!

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Runway Review: The Week In Fashion

This week had a little too much fashion for just one blog post, so I’ve divided your weekly fashion recap into two parts: runway and red carpet. Here’s the runway edition, as the Resort 2011 collections have exploded this week.

Best Accessory: Vamped-Up Stockings

The gams are getting glamorous on the runway this week! Though the effect feels much more fall than spring, many designers chose vamped-up stockings and ornate tights as accessories. I have always been a fan of the embellished stocking – somehow it always makes an outfit more interesting and way sexier.

Worst Accessory: The Tube Belt

I tend to support eccentric accessories, particularly those that bring an element of grittiness into an otherwise tailored, feminine outfit (or vice versa). But if the fashionistas start wearing these ugly, unflattering belts that look like they belong at a gas pump, I’m going to have to scream. I beg you, ladies. No matter how badly you need a belt, rubber tubing is not the answer.

The Saddest Girl on the Runway

There is a such thing as “so bad it’s good.” Examples include the earlier seasons of Degrassi: The Next Generation, “Party in the USA” by Miley Cyrus, and the entire High School Musical franchise. Unfortunately, Cynthia Rowley’s Resort 2011 collection is not “so bad it’s good.” Because it’s downright fugly. From the white shoes to the shapeless “dress” to the patched, frayed fabric – I understand the point is to make a statement using ugliness, but the only statement this makes is “I’m a little homeless boy in my mommy’s shoes”

The Legend of Oscar

Oscar de la Renta Resort 2011

As per usual, I had nearly every look in Oscar de la Renta’s Resort 2011 collection tagged as one of my favorites this week, but I managed to narrow it down to two looks that explain the genius of Mr. de la Renta.

The above look is what designers like Leanne from Project Runway constantly attempt but never quite achieve. She, like Oscar, made full skirts of fabric pieces to make it look like waves, but she limited herself with her desire to stay within a specific structure and color scheme. This blood-red beauty catches like feathers in the wind, moves like waves, possibly could have been made by Elmo’s taxidermist, and is romantic and sweet all at the same time. The rose-looking twist at the center is exquisite.

Oscar de la Renta Resort 2011

And this kind of gown is what Christopher from Project Runway always tried, to no avail. But to create something like this is so much more than making a dress. It truly stands as a piece of art, carefully and thoughtfully draped, sewn, and constructed. I personally love the different polka-dot prints, the black sash at her waist, and the ornate bodice.

The Ill-Fitting Crotch Award

These pants were apparently draped intentionally to give the appearance of a giant cameltoe.

Marc by Marc Jacobs Resort 2011

The Democracy Diva would like to take this opportunity to remind all designers, not just Givenchy and Marc, that vaginas do not need a square foot of breathing room.

90s Throwbacks

This My So Called Life meets Coco Chanel hybrid has all the modernity of the new millennium with the grittiness of the 90s. The tweed dress is lovely (and such an unusual shape) and those peep-toe combat boots are destined to be in my closet. But the black long-sleeved lace undershirt really amps up the alternative rock sensibility, and the contrast between the tailored and the distressed is incredibly beautiful.

Diva’s Pet Peeve

Now, I KNOW we’ve talked about sweatpants on the runway before. I don’t care if it’s the resort collection – fabulous casual vacation lounge clothing and bright yellow elastic waistband sweatpants are not the same. And this poor soul isn’t helped by that boxy T-shirt, the horrible choker, and the mismatched purse.

Best Bollywood Influence

I love the way Naeem Khan’s entire collection felt like it lay somewhere in between Hollywood and Bollywood. Gowns like this one – perfect red carpet gowns with just whispers of sari influences – simultaneously have old Hollywood glamour and a completely modern, global sensibility.

Costumes by Marc Jacobs

Doesn’t this have Emma Pillsbury from Glee written all over it? If McKinley High has a prom or Emma and Will have an engagement party, I think our neurotic little guidance counselor should wear this chic, flowery ensemble from Marc Jacobs.

Marc Jacobs Resort 2011

If this Diva were Katy Perry’s stylist, this is what I’d put her in for a casual day or hot summer night. This is what Katy should be wearing – zany, revealing costumes that hearken back to the 1940s pinup girls. She should go less wild and more conceptual, and her wardrobe would be intriguing instead of just weird.

The Dragtastic Dress

Since the model above does not appear to be a tennis pro by day / drag queen by night who is addicted to ecstasy, I can’t imagine where she plans on wearing this dress.

My Favorite Mini-Dresses

A girly print with a fascinating belt and truly fabulous straps. And that matching bag? To die for.

I call this look “Little Red Riding Hood Goes Bad.” Youthful, sexy, and fresh.

Because, let’s be honest, it’s not summer until you whip out your wildest neon dress.

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More fashion to come! Check back here soon for the Tonys red carpet and more!

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Fashion Week’s 10 Best Looks

And now, for my final fashion week blog post: The 10 best individual looks. You’ve already seen what I’ve loved from the best collections, so get a glimpse of the rest of the beauty that this season has to offer.

#10: Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese Fall 2010

I love my prom dress, but I think this might be the only dress I would have preferred to wear instead. Pink and girly and sweet, but with some interestingly textured draping on the side. Pair it with the badass shoes, the black lace tights, and the funky necklace, and it goes from sugary sweet to a little bit rock-chic.

#9: Cynthia Steffe

Cynthia Steffe Fall 2010

Steffe’s collection was very heavily influenced by the schoolgirl look, and this precious outfit is no exception. I don’t know what I love more – black Mary Janes with socks that go up to those knobbly knees, or this cute little girl’s face paired with the mini leather jacket and matching skirt. It’s so hilariously precious and badass at the same time.

#8: Leanne Marshall

Leanne Marshall Fall 2010

This is easily recognizable as the work of Leanne Marshall, the quiet, mousy, mildly boring winner of the 5th season of Project Runway. I hate everything about this model and the styling of this look, from the awful hair to the clown makeup to the model’s visible lack of experience, bu I cannot stop staring at this dress. Brilliant concept, nicely executed, and so quirky. Subtract the black tights, add a lighter shoe, and put it on a different model, and it’d be a real contender.

#7: Gary Graham

Gary Graham Fall 2010

I just find the shape and volume of the dress, coat, and shoes so intriguing. I love the colors of the dress, and I love that it sort of looks like it’s been stuffed with newspapers to give it that voluminous effect. The jacket is fabulous and perfect with the dress, and the shoes look downright dangerous in the best possible way. I like that her eyes are in shadow but the hair and makeup are simple. Overall, a nice surprise from Gary Graham.

#6: Jill Stuart

Jill Stuart Fall 2010

Anybody who can mix prints and not make the outfit look like it was chosen by a mental patient gets an automatic award from me. These seemingly mismatched prints are stunning together. I love the contrast between the loose-fitting sleeves and the skin-tight dress. I also wish I could pull off those boots. The knit hat is adorable, and this model is wearing the hell out of the whole look.

#5: Vera Wang

Vera Wang Fall 2010

This, to me, is another perfect look. Interesting draping, mixing textures and fabrics, shiny and fun without being too youthful, killer jewelry and shoes. I think every starlet under 25 should be wearing this on the red carpet – I know this is what I’m wearing when my guest starring role on Glee gets me nominated for an Emmy. And a Grammy. (Whatever, it could totally happen.) I do hate this model’s slightly-too-vacant stare, and I highly disapprove of the blatant use of Bump-It happening atop her head, but I am salivating over this dress. Nothing’s better than something black and shiny against that perfectly white background.

#4: Diane von Furstenberg

Diane von Furstenberg Fall 2010

I’ve never seen a designer even attempt to do what Diane mastered with this suit. If it came with a skirt, I think Coco Chanel herself would wear this. That icy grayish purple color of the flowers is so beautiful. This look is just such a breath of fresh air. And check out those little gloves. Too cute.

#3: Herve Leger

Herve Leger Fall 2010

I was surprised by how much I enjoyed Herve Leger’s collection. His ace bandage dresses are obviously a huge hit, because they make every woman look phenomenal and fit like a glove, but they’re not particularly innovative or interesting on their own, so I wasn’t sure how I was going to enjoy a collection of his work. But Leger showed true innovation and creativity with this look. Futuristic and modern, but not over-the-top. This is the kind of thing Fergie or Beyoncé should wear when they’re singing about the year 3008 or whatever the hell excuse they have for wearing such bizarre outfits. I think the concept, design, and execution of this dress are impeccable, and I think it’s still flattering and wearable. Kudos, Herve.

#2: Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka Fall 2010

I don’t have anything to say. It’s simply beautiful.

#1: Irina Shabayeva

Irina Shabayeva Fall 2010

Believe me, no one was more surprised than I when something by Irina Shabayeva, the winner of the universally hated 6th season of Project Runway, ended up being one of my favorite looks on the runway. I always hated Irina – I felt that she was overpraised by the designers because she was the only one with even a modicum of talent, but she was still a complete no-talent who would have been destroyed by the top 3 in any other season. It looks like she proved me wrong.

I think I could spend ten minutes doing nothing but staring at this photo. First of all, I love that she kept her model from Project Runway to work with her on this collection, because her model is quite talented, and it’s just so sweet that they stayed together after the show. Furthermore, this feels so McQueen during a season that desperately missed his beautiful influence. The shape of this feels like it’s keeping Alexander McQueen’s legacy alive without stealing from him. And those feathers are so incredibly beautiful, I forget that she’s a woman and not a peacock. In a good way.

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So, you’ve seen the best and worst of it all, my friends. Stay tuned for posts about things having nothing to do with New York fashion week!

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Fashion Week’s Best: Ralph Lauren & Marchesa

The Diva is back, and apologizes for the hiatus. It’s been a busy week!

As far as best collections go, Ralph Lauren took the #2 spot for me. The plaids, the tweeds, and the overall 90s feel to it was perfect for this Diva’s taste. And I love to see someone who’s basically the founder of preppy fashion go just a little grunge.

Ralph Lauren Fall 2010

This is head-to-toe perfection. That shirt is the perfect print, the perfect colors, and the sleeves are beautiful. I’ve never seen a vest so adorable, nor pants that fit so well (and do my eyes deceive me, or do the pants have little buttons on the bottom? PRECIOUS). And finally, someone is wearing a belt where belts actually were created to be worn. It’s about time. Cute purse, great styling, and the overall look is just so tailored and stunning. It’s a darker side to preppy, and I love it.

Ralph Lauren Fall 2010

Ralph Lauren filled the end of his show with elaborate, floor-length, floral gowns, worn casually with black lace elbow-length fingerless gloves. (Basically a high-fashion version of what I wore to my 90s themed birthday party, lace gloves and all.) Gown after gown was beautiful and unique, with the models styled like cleaner versions of Rayanne Graff from My So-Called Life

Between the two above looks, I can’t help but think that Ralph designed this collection with me in mind. I’d absolutely kill to wear any of his runway designs from this astonishingly beautiful collection, which you can view here in its entirety.

The Best Collection of Fall 2010’s New York Fashion Week

Marchesa Fall 2010

For this Diva, there was no contest. Marchesa was the winner by a landslide. Just look at the draping on that dress – it’s impeccably made, it’s charming, and it has a sense of humor about itself without being costumey. And the shoes? Yes, please. Though I’m not crazy about the model, I think this is just so loveable.

Marchesa Fall 2010

For me, this dress is the angsty older sister of the dress before it. It’s still red, it’s still fascinatingly draped and the shapes are still rose-inspired, but somehow this gives off an entirely different, and much more intense, vibe. If ever there was a dress that Lady Gaga should wear on a day when she’s only feeling minimally insane, it’s this. The model’s got a quite a “What the fuck are you looking at” expression (but is it just me, or do her feet look extremely diseased?), and I’d love to see the way this dress moves, especially on the red carpet. This is certainly my favorite dress of my favorite collection of Fashion Week.

Marchesa Fall 2010

And here is Marchesa’s brilliance – it’s not all fun and silly, and it’s not all dark and avant garde. Sometimes, it’s just simple and beautiful with a bit of intrigue. That tuxedo bolero jacket is absolutely to die for. And the way the dress billows out from underneath such a structured top makes me never want to look away from it. I also believe the stockings have designs around the ankles, made to look like she’s wearing anklets or is tattooed or some such thing. I love it. The shoes are killer and the model is gorgeous.

Marchesa Fall 2010

This represents another genius aspect of Marchesa. This is a dress everybody tries to make, from Project Runway contestants to high-fashion designers and back again. But it’s Marchesa who gives it detail, meaning, and intrigue. The multitude of textured fabrics she uses are beautiful, as is the color scheme, which is winter at its best. Again, she used embellished tights that are reminiscent of an ice dancer, except for the fact that I love them. And another pair of shoes that I’d sell my kidney to wear.

Marchesa Fall 2010

And this is just classic Marchesa. Extravagant, innovative, and fit for a queen.

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My LAST New York Fashion Week post will be up later today! Stay tuned.

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Fashion Week’s Best and Worst Models

Pretty in Yellow

Peter Jensen Fall 2010

This woman is Molly Ringwald’s doppelganger. What’s not to love? She’s got Molly’s red hair, her doe eyes, and of course, those infamous lips that made America fall in love with her. If anyone knows her name, please let me know, as I just want to stalk her and gaze at her face all day long while “Don’t You Forget About Me” plays softly in the background.

Trannylicious

Proenza Schouler Fall 2010

I don’t mean to be rude, but I simply do not believe that this person was born with a vagina. I’m not opposed to men modeling women’s clothes in edgy photo shoots and such, but if you’re going for cross-dressing on the runway, at least be up front about it. The design is hideous, but the audience isn’t even given the chance to consider what the outfit looks like, since they’re all just trying to get a glimpse up her skirt for proof. I guess if I designed something this ugly, I’d need to put a man in it just to keep people’s focus away from the garment, too.

My Top Model: Tao Okamoto

I think I first noticed her at the Zac Posen show. She already looked familiar, as if I’d seen her in other shows, but I stopped and stared at her perfect features and impossibly adorable bowl haircut for several minutes when I saw her in Posen.

Zac Posen Fall 2010

Tao Okamoto’s stunning face and charming haircut followed me from collection to collection, and I started recognizing her face everywhere.

Ralph Lauren Fall 2010

Jason Wu Fall 2010

Diane von Furstenberg Fall 2010

Ms. Okamoto, age 22, also walked in the Fall 2010 runway shows for Tommy Hilfiger, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Narcisco Rodriguez, Badgley Mischka, Michael Kors, Lacoste, and many more – around 25 shows in all. A few other ladies may have walked in a few more shows this season, but she got the hottest designers and caught my eye time and time again. She’s pretty versatile – I’ve seen her in formal and casual, girly and edgy and everything in between. Though I prefer her with less makeup, she can certainly also rock a more dramatic, made-up look. I just can’t get enough of her, and though she’s been on the runway since 2006, I hope she stays forever ageless so we can enjoy her beauty in many more runway shows to come.

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I’ve got at least three Fashion Week posts left in me, so keep checking back for more!

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Fashion Week’s Best: Zac Posen and Oscar de la Renta

There was a whole lot of gorgeous happening on the runway this week, so obviously I could not choose one particular best collection or look. I’ve actually chosen 4 different collections as the best of the best. This post will cover Zac Posen and Oscar de la Renta’s collections; I’ll have plenty more to say later on about two other delectable designers, plus an additional post with a cornucopia of the best looks from many designers. But for now, let’s look at some beauty.

Zac Posen

Zac Posen Fall 2010

Beautiful from head to toe. I cannot get enough of this particularly talented model’s neverending legs and super-sassy expression. The dress is a unique shape and silhouette and it flows practically like liquid, and it keeps drawing your eye to different places without seeming overworked. I also appreciate when a designer lets their work stand for itself instead of over-accessorizing and distracting from the beauty and intrigue of this dress. It’s wearable but with a touch of intrigue, and this model is wearing the shit out of it. She puts the pose in Posen! (Yeah, I made a pun. You love it.)

Zac Posen Fall 2010

There is a lot to be said for simplicity with a twist. It’s a very spring dress for a fall collection, but not so much that it feels out of place. I just think this is incredibly sellable and wearable. I can’t imagine this not showing up in US Weekly’s “Who wore it better?” section, because every starlet is going to want to wear this everywhere she goes. The colors and the assymetrical panels are so simple but so beautiful, which is basically what Zac Posen is all about.

The Final Look

Zac Posen Fall 2010

Designers tend to choose very formal gowns or their most elaborate red carpet-worthy looks for the final look of their collection, but Posen has made an empire out of cocktail dresses instead of full-length gowns, so I think he was wise to stick with what he knows best. The print, the fabric, and the colors are unbeatable. The pink/red sheer stockings are delicious, if a bit unwearable. (I mean, I’d wear them, but I own an ungodly amount of brightly colored tights. Seriously, it’s weird.) I think this model is a bit too unattractive to be featured in the final look of the collection, but the dress fits her well and flows beautifully.

Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2010

This is my personal idea of a perfect look. Over-the-top or avant garde hair and makeup are fun and can be a blast, but for a ready-to-wear collection, this is the look I love. Beautiful and wild hair, exaggerated street makeup (I actually prefer the face to be more bare, just emphasizing lips and eyes, but if I had those cheekbones, I’d paint them up too). And the dress is glorious – the color pops, particularly against the bare-bones background (another argument in favor of surrounding beauty with simplicity so the beauty can shine). Fabulous tailoring, with the rouching/wrinkling effect making her look more sophisticated instead of disheveled, which is a difficult thing to nail. And we don’t see a lot of long-sleeved dresses that aren’t sweaterdresses or shirtdresses or other clothing-dress hybrids. And as my sister Haley has pointed out about the late Alexander McQueen, it’s particularly impressive when a designer who is known for their extravagance (like McQueen and de la Renta) can nail a simple and wearable design. The Zac Posens of the world can rock simplicity, and others can nail the avant garde or ultra-glamorous, but someone who can do both is even more unique.

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2010

As my mother would say, That is a suit. I’d like to cut off the woman’s head, because she actually looks like a contestant on RuPaul’s Drag Race, but that jacket is exquisite – it would have gone into my Coats post, except for the fact that this is all about the look as a whole. The gloves (are they a part of the coat? If so, that’s awesome, if totally impractical), the tights (I NEED THOSE IN MY GIANT DRAWER OF CRAZY TIGHTS), and it just screams, I am a fabulous fall suit that you’d be an idiot not to want.

Oscar de la Renta Fall 2010

This deeply saturated, gorgeous blue color popped into several runway collections this year, and for good reason. It’s stunning. And the world always needs a dress draped in a new and interesting way. I’d nix the matchy-matchy purse, but that color really makes her glow.

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These weren’t my favorite individual looks overall, but these collections had the largest amount of designs that I loved (besides the two designers I’ll be blogging about later). My full list of the 15 best looks will be up this week.

Don’t take my word blindly. Check out all the beautiful pictures from Zac Posen’s collection and Oscar de la Renta’s collection at New York Magazine.

Posted by democracydiva

Fashion Week: The Ten Worst Looks

#10: The Confused Burlesque Dancer/Office Worker

L.A.M.B. Fall 2010

I’m going to pull a Nina Garcia and ask, “Where is this woman going?” Because to me, she’s spent a long day at the office and was late for her moonlighting job as a burlesque performer, and hastily applied enough eyeliner to appease Taylor Momsen for the next ten years, and threw on the first piece of lingerie she could find over her work clothes. Now that’s a day-to-evening look.

#9: If George Jetson and Fred Flintstone had a lovechild…

And that lovechild was an anorexic wannabe rebellious teen with a permanent bad hair day, she’d look something like this:

Project Runway: Mila Fall 2010

I know the bar is set low for the Project Runway Fashion Week collections, since they let practically everyone and their mother show a collection to amp up the suspense of who’s actually in the top three, but this is just tacky. And it wasn’t even the worst look of the Project Runway family – but we’ll get to that later.

#8: Christina Aguilera’s Farewell Tour Gown

Altuzarra Fall 2010

There is something so sad about this dress. It just screams desperation. You don’t need a slit up to the bikini line, cutouts at the armpits and both sides of the body, a leopard print choker-collar, AND a blood red color. Something tells me it has a low back too, though I have no proof of that. Not to mention it’s poorly fitted (or poorly draped, or both) around the top, and even the model looks as if she knows this is her last shot at stardom. If this isn’t what Christina Aguilera wears when she’s 60 on her farewell tour, then it’s what Blake Lively will wear to the Emmys.

#7: A Reject from the Cast of Rent

William Rast Fall 2010

Sometimes I truly wish I could be in on the meetings where these concepts are created. I just want to hear William Rast say to his team, “I know. She’ll be in baggy, unflattering cargo pants, tucked into ugly boots. And she’ll wear a grey T-shirt – but it’ll have those little shiny rhinestones that you can buy for $1 for a pack of 500! But wait, wait, she’ll also have a dead possum wrapped around one hip, and on the other side, she’ll carry a big black blanket!” And when they stare at him in silence, he’ll add, “And her beautiful strawberry blonde hair will be so overprocessed that even Britney Spears wouldn’t wear it as a wig.” [Edit: William Rast is not actually a person, it’s just the name of the brand, but I was lazy and decided to just personify him instead of going into the whole Justin Timberlake/whomever else runs that line explanation. Thanks to Amy for pointing out my confusing remarks. If it helps you to imagine JTimber saying those things to his design team, feel free.]

#6: I’m Underwhelmed

Michael, Michael, Michael.

Michael Kors Fall 2010

How can I believe in any of your bitchy opinions on Project Runway again, when you send a girl in a a ribbed tank, Old Navy sweatpants, possibly legwarmers, and two belts down the runway? I may never trust again.

#5: There Simply Aren’t Words

Wayne Fall 2010

It’s a fanny pack. SHE’S WEARING A FANNY PACK. I’m going to have an aneurysm.

#4: Fix Yourself, Girl – You’ve Got a Cameltoe

Erin Wasson x RVCA Fall 2010

I’m not sure if it’s awkward placement of strings, bad draping, or just a vagina that starts at her neck that creates such an unflattering image, but there is some serious weirdness happening in this woman’s nether regions. Factor in her $5 hair extensions and the fact that she is wearing a full-length satin jumpsuit, and I just want to weep for this poor girl who will have to take off all her clothes to pee, and whose extra-long vagina will haunt my nightmares forever.

#3: Best Actress Award

Edition by Georges Chakra Fall 2010

This woman should be the highest-paid model of all time. I can’t believe she can walk down the runway with such a serious face when she’s wearing Clifford the Big Red Dog’s cousin’s skin / the Drag Queen Smurf’s pajamas / what Blue from Blues Clues sees in the mirror when he’s tripping on LSD. Kudos to her.

#2: The Future of Booby Tassels

Project Runway: Jonathan Fall 2010

I think she’ll be the star of the sequel to The Hangover, when one of the bros wakes up next to this exotic dancer whose pants look her at least thirty pounds heavier than she actually is, and who felt the need to shield her breasts from his withering stare with cocktail napkins. Jonathan, you’re the one I actually like on the show. You look kinda like Brad from The Rachel Zoe Project, and you usually make stylish things, and you’re just a little bitchy, but in the good way. I can’t believe you’ve disappointed me so much that I genuinely hope you get kicked off the show before the finale, so that I don’t have to relive my nausea over this ensemble in a few months.

#1: Madonna meets Gothic Firefighter

Jeremy Scott Fall 2010

Dearest readers: Next time I decide that my definition of fashion includes the world’s most cheaply made pair of vagina-high boots, Steve Urkel’s shorts, and suspenders with black cones in lieu of a shirt, please put me out of my misery.

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Honorable Mention: Kim Kardashian, Fashion Designer

There was no one particular look in the Bebe/Kardashian collection that disturbed me enough to be in the top ten, but the overall collection is just one cheap, under-designed, trend-pimping, tacky piece of crap after another. I’m not sure why you wouldn’t believe that something like that could come from Kim Kardashian’s brilliant influence, but if you don’t, see for yourself.

Posted by democracydiva

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